12/13/2015

The M Is for Marvelous




Dateline: Biloxi, Mississippi



Our stories are timeless and tested. They are about us, a people of tremendous strength. Our songs are full of love and life— and the ups and downs of both. They are soulful with the rhythms of a heart that is in sync with nature and wonderment. Our struggles are real and rugged. They beckon our memory to the highest callings of the spirit, to help us rejoice and to overcome.”

Deborah L. Parker



He had the looks of a scruffy middle aged Sidney Poitier but his swag was all Fred Sanford, with just the right mixture of Falstaffian character qualities: robust, bawdy and brazen. He was working the night shift as the front desk clerk of a rundown motel on the seedy side of Biloxi, Mississippi. Even before releasing my right hand after the obligatory first meeting handshake, he had informed me, “The name is Marvin M. Harris. The M is for Marvelous.”



Biloxi is a sea port city with a colorful past steeped in the now long ago antebellum glory days of the Old South. Unfortunately, to a first time visitor, the city’s present is a mere one step ahead of urban decay. In Biloxi’s case, big city eastern seaboard problems have found their way onto the Gulf Coast of Mississippi. Stately southern mansions still dot several well preserved and protected inland sub divisions, majestic Magnolia trees bordering wide boulevards. But the tourist industry has all but dried up and left town, a concession to the rapid development of what the locales refer to as “the Redneck Rivera,” the Gulf Shores, AL area, about 60 miles up the coast.



The Jimmy Buffet parrot head types spend little time in modern day Biloxi, it being no Margaritaville. It is instead as blue collar as a beach front community can get, still a sailor’s town, ripe with a full supply of all the shady enmities that sailors enjoy.



The evening shift on this particular winter week day, Marvelous informed me, had been slow. He was on the 4 pm to midnight shift. He preferred the midnight to 8 am schedule. It paid a dollar an hour more. “Not as busy, either,” he told me, “but there are still a few more problems on the grave yard shift.” Such as, I asked? “No custodian on duty after midnight, so I got to clean up the puke in the lobby myself.”



I guessed his age to have been between 65 to 70 years. But he also appeared to have lived a hard life, the sort that can make a man appear older than he really is. Manners did not allow for me to inquire, but even if my estimate is off by a decade either way, he would still have been of the last of a generation of blacks to have lived in the south under the Jim Crow laws of segregation. I asked about coming of age in Mississippi under such discriminatory laws, when separate but equal was the law of the land, strictly keeping the races separate.



“You assuming a lot, my friend, what makes you think I grew up in the south?” The accent, maybe, I responded? “I went to an all-black school,” he answered with a head nod to my inquiry about growing up in the Mississippi of segregationist laws. “Terrible schools. Teachers, most of them, couldn’t even read themselves. Back then all of our teachers were black and most were poorly educated because the college’s blacks could go to in those days were not good colleges. The books, the few we had, were the ones sent down from the white schools when they were done with them. Most didn’t have the covers even left on them but I guess they were good enough for us nigger kids. But tell you what, we behaved or they would beat our little black asses until we couldn’t sit down. My, oh my how those teachers could swing that paddle. Today, the schools are still segregated, but not by law, but instead by choice. The white kids all go to the private academies, but we do have lots of well-educated white teachers in the local public schools. They teach my grand babies.”



“We couldn’t even go to school in Biloxi, not for high school, anyway,” Marvelous remembered. “They sent us up to Gulf Port to what was known as the 33rd Avenue High School. It is where all the ‘colored’ children, as they referred to us in polite society back then, went. It was the law up until the early 70’s. School building still there, but when Katrina blew through, it darn near took it down. Not much left. It is named after the address of the street it sits on. Think about that? You ever hear of a school named for its address? Guess the white people in charge back then figured there was not one nigger from the area, going back 100 years, that was worth naming the school after,” he said with a laugh. “And no self-respecting white back then wanted their name on the front door of the town’s nigger school.”



Marvelous asked me what I did for a living. I told him I was now a professional vagabond pretending to be retired, but I had previously spent 30+ years in public education. “You was a teacher,” he said, in a tone that told me I was now sitting dead in his sights, I just wasn’t yet sure why. It would not take long for me to understand. “Yes,” I confirmed, “15 years in a class room and 15 years as a building administrator.” What did you teach, he asked? “American History,” I told him.



“Well, let me tell you about history, Mr. History teacher, our true history, not that stuff they want kids to learn in schools, but the truth, how it really was,” Marvelous responded with a condescending tone in his voice. “See, I like history, it’s kind of a hobby of mine.  I love to read. Pretty much self-taught. I quit school in 8th grade when I turned 16. But I always knew if I was to make anything in this life I had to know how to read. Black kids today just don’t understand how important education is. So many good people a long time ago sacrificed so much, just so black kids today can sit in a class room. Some even gave their lives and these dumb punks today throw it away. Throw way the opportunity we were denied for so long, the right to an education. It makes me just sick to see the waste. And you know the real shame; it’s the black community allowing it to happen, a self-inflicted wound.”



It was time, Marvelous told me, for a quiz and he was now the one at the head of the class. “Now tell me what you know about Woodrow Wilson,” Marvelous asked, leaning across the front lobby desk, the gleam in his eyes now matching the shine on his gold front tooth, oblivious to the two young ladies of the evening who had just entered the lobby. Attired in four inch heels and two inch skirts; they loudly argued about who did or did not hold seniority on the street corner outside the front door.



Later, when the bickering between the two began anew, interrupting our conversation, Marvelous quickly and decisively ran both out of the lobby. “Dumb ass crack whores are the only whores that are left to work on the street anymore. The hookers with any class at all, now days, they all use Craig’s List,” Marvelous said.



Woodrow Wilson, I responded, drawing out the pronunciation in a way that showed I was calling up from my well educated history teaching brain a plethora of information that would prove overwhelming by sheer volume for this night shift desk clerk wannabe historian.



Woodrow Wilson: “President of the United States, highly educated, served as President of Princeton University, created the League of Nations after WWI, considered the most educated president ever,” and I added, after a long pause to draw out the drama of the knockout punch of knowledge I was about to unload, “probably had a nervous breakdown the last three months of his final term. Most historians agree now that his wife really ran the nation during that time, with Wilson sequestered in the White House 24 hours a day in his bedroom. Sequestered, that means hid out,” I clarified for my new friend.



“You left out the most important part,” Marvelous said, ignoring my condescending addendum to the end of my lecture. “Wilson was the biggest racist in the history of the American Presidency. Even worse than some before the (civil war) who had owned slaves.” Taken aback slightly by this tidbit of trivia, I recovered quickly. “I do know that was rumored, the racism,” was my retort. “Rumored,” Marvelous answered. “Rumored; your white ass. It is a fact, but I bet you never taught it to those kids in your class, now did you?”



Marvelous was now in full control of this conversation. “All this Princeton stuff, the League of Nations and its 14 Points (damn, I thought, I forgot to mention the 14 Points), all bull shit. Wilson came from the South. He came to the presidency in 1912 with considerable help from the black vote. Back in that time, blacks were very much aligned with the Republican Party, the party of Lincoln. Teddy Roosevelt had been the progressive leader of the Party and had served seven years in the White House, but the Democrats made a big push to win over the black vote in 1912 and it worked, get Taft out. When TR couldn’t get the nomination away from Taft and (he) formed a third party, the Bull Moose Party. That is what we need today, a man of action, like Teddy, but that is another story, so back to Wilson. They (black voters) got Wilson elected. And you know what the first thing he did when he got to Washington to pay back blacks for their loyalty? Wilson segregated everything, both in the city and in the government agencies buildings. Made it the law. Blacks and whites now had to work in separate buildings, if they worked for the government. If circumstances made it so it was not possible to separate whites from blacks by buildings, then Wilson ordered that curtains be hung between white and black workers, to discourage association. Bet you never taught that to your students, now did you, Mr. History teacher?”



Later when I researched Wilson’s race segregating history, I found that Marvelous was extremely accurate in his rendition of a very sad chapter in our nation’s past, one, as Marvelous had predicted, I had never taught to my students.



“Now listen to this, it should be a very important part of our history and should be taught to every school kid in America, but it’s not.” Marvelous was rolling now. “The worst domestic riots in the history of this nation were racial riots and came in the later years of Wilson’s (tenure) and the year’s immediately after his terms in office. He set the tone for the 1920’s, the worst decade in our history for intimidation and the denial of civil rights to black citizens in the South.”



“I will give you an interesting fact, the first example of air bombing of civilians, anywhere in the recorded history of the world happened right here in this country, came during the race riots in Tulsa, OK in 1921. Our military bombed black neighborhoods in Tulsa. They, our military, understand, dropped dynamite on the black neighborhoods of Tulsa and killed at least 70 innocently random people. We are not talking now about Syria or Iran, mind you, we are talking about Oklahoma, OKLAHOMA, and nobody remembers. Did you ever teach that to your students?”



Back on my heels now, Marvelous smelled blood in the water and moved in for the intellectual kill. “Tell me about the Reconstruction Era, the year’s right after the Civil War,” he asked? I once again gave him the standard text book rendition: The defeated southern states were treated as a conquered nation by the northern victors. Blacks in the southern states were put into positions of governmental authority by northern forces. Although noble in intent, the complexity of governing a nation by a group of just freed and uneducated slaves proved to be too much and was a dismal failure. Eventually, the north out of frustration, withdrew its troops and thus the enforcement of the reconstruction mandates it had put in place. With no agency of power to enforce the laws of equality, whites took back all local and state power in the southern states and a Jim Crow segregated society became deeply entrenched for the next 100 years.



Once again, Marvelous was neither impressed nor in agreement with my assessment. “Bullshit, more bullshit,” was his evaluation of my knowledge of Reconstruction. “You know less about Reconstruction than you do about Wilson, and that my friend is limited,” he said.



“Did you know that Reconstruction in Mississippi worked just fine,” he stated, “as long as the federal troops were there to enforce the law that all men are equal? Once they (the Feds) pulled out, then fear took over and terror was used to take back all the gains of Reconstruction. The Klan rose to power and the darkest chapter in the history of this country, even worse that slavery itself, came about. Jim Crow and segregation was released upon my people, my ancestors, and eventually upon me.”



He was not yet through; he had one more good and strong volley of academia ammunition to fire across the bow of my sinking ship. “Here is a fact you will not find in the history books,” Marvelous announced. “Did you know that the first public school mandatory laws for school attendance in Mississippi; and the first laws that obligated the state to support compulsory education for white children (were) passed in 1870 by an almost all black state legislature?”



“How ironic that it was black politicians who made the laws that for the first time allowed white kids in Mississippi the right to go and get a free public school education. Right here in good old boy Jim Crow Magnolia state Mississippi. Did you ever teach your students that fact when you talked to them about how Reconstruction failed because blacks were not ready to lead,” he asked, with no attempt to try and hide the triumph in the tone of his voice? I remained silent, defenseless to the onslaught. Marvelous answered for me, “No.”



“And you know why you didn’t,” he prodded, rhetorically? “Because, Mr. History teacher, no one ever taught you.”



They have now.


11/30/2015

The Open Road


After spending the last three years on the great open road of America, randomness, I have learned, is the inherent beauty of vagabonding. Forget the map, turn off the GPS and just be. What I found was bit of Keourec, a dash of Kuralt with just the right pinch of Least Heat-Moon; a dream road trip for the lover of backroad America and the true aficionado of what is unique Americana.


Here is a small sample of my wandering encounters:


I discussed the meaning of life with a young man dying of colon cancer, engaging in an intense four-hour dialogue with an amazing human being who had taken the worse news anyone can receive and turned it into a personal crusade to live life to the fullest, while exploring his own mortality; a display of personal courage and faith that shook my own belief system to its core. Like most I met on the open road, he was with me for a few hours, then gone forever. Later, to fulfill a promise, I visited his Kentucky grave site.


I shared several beers with a former small town high school football star that had lost his path in life, desperately searching for the fleeting fame that he had known one special Autumn now years gone by.


I spent a brutally hot South Texas September Sunday afternoon in the company of an 80-year-old desert rat with the charm of a rattlesnake and the wisdom of a cloistered monk, reliving the sometime gloried past of a now near ghost town he had all of his life called home.


I broke bread in the home of a third generation North Dakota extended farm family who were struggling to find their niche in a fast spinning world-wide agricultural economy they did not understand. 


I settled into an economy class seat on a red eye flight out of Minneapolis, next to a spiritually unfulfilled but financially ultra-successful and wealthy business executive; lamenting the perfect curve ball that had evaded him as a school boy.


I discussed the state of American politics with an aging stripper (I met her in an all-night diner, so perish the salacious thoughts) who was losing her personal battle with the demons of addiction.


I fell into a time warp in the San Juan Mountains of south central Wyoming, experiencing the hard scrabble life of an 19th century snow bound high country rancher.


I heard the heart-warming but melancholy saga of a small town loser, still suspended Peter Pan style in the perpetual end zone of his youth, clinging to the only success he had ever known in life, the celebratory memory of an obscure high school football touchdown of 40 years gone by. 


I debated with a friendly elderly but fanatical couple of Tea Partiers in a timeless café on the banks of the Texas Hill Country South Fork of the Brazos River, the role of government and the future of America over a piece of the best cherry pie I have ever tasted.


I was humbled by a “marvelous” night desk clerk with a gold front tooth, laboring in a seedy Gulf of Mexico port side motel; the history teacher taught a history lesson. 


Over a late night high mountain camp fire, I shared with an aging hippy - a renaissance man with a charming addiction to wandering the land but an acrimonious distaste for work - a pot of hot coffee while a Rocky Mountain blizzard bore down upon us.


Characters and caricatures, like the endless byways I traveled, on and on the stories rolled.

11/25/2015

Take The High Road

Akin to a no hitter jinx in baseball, don’t mention it until it is done. As of today I have a contract with Covington Publishing of Kanas City to print my third book titled Take the High Road: dispatches from the

(heart)land. Barnes and Noble picked up my first two and I have indications they will this one as well. I spent parts of the years 2012 to 2015 on the open road listening to Americans. We are today a divided nation. I wanted to know why? This book is about what I heard. To my pleased amazement, my long and winding road inexplicably and constantly led me to cross paths with the type of characters found in a Mark
Twain novel or portrayed in a Norman Rockwell painting. Those flawed with the bittersweet memories of good times long gone became my new “on the road” friends. If this books sells, great. If not, then I had a hell of a lot of fun writing a nice tax deduction. Expected release date is February 1, 2016.
 
 
 
 
 

 

11/13/2015

Shut Up, Its Working

 
Yesterday, I had to travel from Rolla, MO to Crystal City, MO, south of St. Louis, MO.  I took a short cut by exiting Interstate Highway 44 onto Highway 30. The route took me past St. Clair, MO High School. It brought back memories of my first year, 1980-81, as an assistant boys’ basketball coach at Sullivan, MO High School.



In 1981, Marshall  Schaefferkoetter was our head coach and led the Eagles that March to the school’s first ever state final four. But, before getting to state, we had to defeat a very good Union team in the District tournament, held  that year at St. Clair High School. We had beaten Union three times over the course of the regular season, but all three had been close, one in OT.
 
 
On the 15 minute ride north up Interstate 44 from Sullivan to St. Clair, Marshall was like a whore in church. He was always jittery and high strung for a game, but I had never seen him this nervous. Every couple of miles he would say to me, “we got to do something different.” I told him, “Marshall, we have beaten them three times; they have to do something different. Relax. We will be fine.”
When we arrived at St. Clair High School it was pitch dark. Instead of pulling up to the front of the gym Marshall ordered the bus driver to take us to the back of the parking lot and unload under a street light. “Oh, no,” I thought.
Marshall takes the team off the bus and into the parking lot. He says, “Now say that is the basket,” as he points to the street light, “here is what we are going to do.”   He proceeds to put in a whole new defense in the parking lot one hour before a district game!
And it was the damn strangest thing I had ever seen. Marshall was firing like a machine gun and the players all had a WTF look on their faces. “If we hit a free throw we will pick up in ¾ court pressure and then fall back into a 2-3 zone. If they steal the ball on the right side we are box and 1 on Arand.  If we shoot and miss then straight man to man. If we score in the paint”……… and on and on he went.
Predictably, when the game started we were manic on defense, totally confused. We had two guys playing zone, two guys playing MTM, one guy just chasing the ball and all five yelling at each other. The next time down the floor it would be some other discombobulated combination, a total mess.  In short, it was a Chinese fire drill on steroids. Marshall just sat on the bench nodding his head.
Half way through the first quarter, incredibly,  we are winning 8-0. Union had yet to even gotten a shot off at the basket. I told Marshall, “we got to get out of this defense; we don’t know what we are doing.” Out of the side of his mouth –on the bench he always spoke out of the side of his mouth – Marshall told me to, “shut up its working.”
And it was!
In basketball the defense dictates to the offense what type of offense to run. Union did not know what offense to run because they did not know what defense we were in because we didn’t know what defense we were in!
 
For years later, when I would bump into one of the Union coaches, they would bring up Marshall’s “UFO” defense, as they had so aptly labeled it.
For the entire course of my career as a head boys’ basketball coach our defensive philosophy was based on what I learned from Marshall that night.  We were known as a team that was hard to prepare for because we employed a number of different defenses and we were constantly changing up our scheme, almost on every possession, to keep the offense off balance and out of a rhythm. “On defense, to be successful” I would say, “you must play fast, play hard and create chaos” - exactly what Marshall’s UFO defense did.
I have told the story of the UFO defense in coaches’ clinics and player development camps I have run with Jackie Stiles from Portland to Miami, from San Diego to Philadelphia. I share that in my early years as a coach I thought Marshall was crazy. The longer I was in coaching the more clearly I realized he indeed was crazy; crazy like a fox – there always being a method in his madness. It just took us mere mortals a while to figure out what it was.  
 
I have never felt Marshall has gotten the credit he deserved as a coach. I don’t know if he is in the Missouri Basketball Coaches Hall of Fame or not, but if he is not, he should be.
It is now way past time for me to give my mentor his due. I have made a good living for a lot of years on a system that sprang from a seed planted 34 years ago by a “crazy” coach under a street light in a dark parking lot, one hour before a crucial district game. Belated much thanks, Marshall.

 

8/10/2015

Missouri's Version of the Best That Never Was.


Today we crossed paths with a high school football legend.
Now a non-descript assistant football coach for the Lincoln University Blue Tigers in Jefferson City, MO, Tony Van Zant helped us unload gear destined for Wednesday’s opening day of practice. Thirty years ago he was the consensus choice for the best high school football player in the United States. Many old timers claim to this day he is the best the Show-Me State has ever produced; hard to argue with 6,138 yards rushing and 91 career touchdowns.
“Touchdown Tony” led Hazelwood Central High School to the 1985 large school Missouri state championship. The whole state rejoiced when he cast his lot with the Missouri Tigers. A last minute fateful decision, made against the wishes of the Mizzou coaches, to play in a late summer all-star game just weeks before beginning his college career cost TVZ both his right knee and his gift. Subsequently, he limped through a pedestrian five year college career- 252 yards and one touchdown, total.
Ironically, the injury occurred on the field of Lincoln University’s Reed Stadium, less than a football’s throw from where we unloaded boxes on a sultry August afternoon.
Tony Van Zant, Missouri version of the Best That Never Was.